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Thread: Is this reel worth repairing

  1. #11
    We are there! Let's go fishing!!
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    Or the drag stack may be installed improperly (in the wrobg order)
    (RETIRED) mostly.
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  2. #12
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    When was the last time you opened up the body, inspected and maintained it?
    No time like the present, inspect the gears/parts, clean out the old lube and re-lube it.
    Your firearms grease will do fine for that.
    Ragnar Benson:
    Never, under any circumstances, ever become a refugee.
    Die if you must, but die on your home turf with your face to the wind, not in some stinking hellhole 2,000 kilometers away, among people you neither know nor care about.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Boy View Post
    Greg, did you take the old drag stack out and clean the inside of the spool and all metal and carbon washers. One of the carbon washers might be torn and is causing a binding when the drag is tight.
    I took the old ones out, but I haven't cleaned them yet

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregInAtl View Post
    I checked the shaft and it doesn't appear to be bent. I noticed that it seems to be directly related to how tight the drag is. If I don't turn the drag down very tight it operates smoothly. If I tighten the drag down more then it starts to bind about every 5 or 6 turns. Unfortunately, I have to have the drag set very light for it not to bind.
    I don't know all there is to know, but that does not sound like the drag to me. Take a look at whether or not the stiffness correlates to a position of the spool traveling in and out. The shaft (with spool) is the only thing that I can think of that correlate to 5 or 6 turns of the crank.

    Could the spool be rubbing as it travels in and out? That would change with a tightened drag as the spool would be held more tightly, but it could still be a shaft problem causing the spool to bind.

    Edit: Having thought more about it, a torn or worn drag could make the spool sit on the shaft a little cocked which could cause it to rub against the frame. You still need to observe the position of the spool (extended and retracted) when the stiffness occurs.

    Like I said, I don't know all there is to know, but it is just a mechanism and there are not too many things that can go wrong.
    People are shocked to see sharks in the water around here.

    If you see natural water taste it. If it's salty it has sharks in it. If it's fresh it has alligators in it. If it's brackish it has both.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChileRelleno View Post
    No, not the same type of grease.
    Just install the drag stack dry, they'll be fine.
    That is unless you've some Cal's Grease, that's the only drag grease I'll use with HT-100 drags.
    Ever used this?


    I saw a video of some guy replacing the drag stack and he was using it. It has some pretty good reviews
    coach likes this.

  6. #16
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    Never seen that, I use penn oil in the little tube.
    Carl

    Life is too short to drink bad beer.

    Disclaimer: This post and/or report is not a substantiation of or reflection on the true accuracy of the present stock assessment methods. It is only an anecdotal report on or comment concerning local observations. Your results may vary.

  7. #17
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    For drags with HT-100s I only use Cal's Grease.
    For all other grease needs, internal parts/gears, I use Yamaha Marine Grease Blue.
    For bearings I use Corrosion X.
    Ragnar Benson:
    Never, under any circumstances, ever become a refugee.
    Die if you must, but die on your home turf with your face to the wind, not in some stinking hellhole 2,000 kilometers away, among people you neither know nor care about.

 

 
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