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Thread: Is this reel worth repairing

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    Is this reel worth repairing

    I have a Penn 450ssg reel that needs some minor repair work. When turning the handle to reel the line in, after 10 or 12 turns, it will get harder to turn. Then after pushing a little harder it will start getting easier to turn again. This cycles continues ad infinitum. This is a discontinued reel but Penn still services it. For about $60 ($10 diagnostic fee, $25 flat labor charge, $15 shipping back to me) + whatever it costs me to ship it to them I can have it back to proper working order. For a little over $100, I could have a brand new Penn Battle II. So my dilemma is "fix the 450" or "get a new reel for another $50 or so".

    How does the 450ssg stack up against the Penn Battle II. I realize that Penn's ssg line (made in China) is not of the same quality of the earlier Penn's (e.g. ss and sm series). I also have a Penn 7500ss and 5500ss and they are both a more quality reel than my 450ssg.

    It should be noted that I can still use the 450 wit the "sticky" crank, it's just a little annoying.

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    Sounds like a bent main shaft, any others think the same??
    Easy to replace it you order one.
    Carl

    Life is too short to drink bad beer.

    Disclaimer: This post and/or report is not a substantiation of or reflection on the true accuracy of the present stock assessment methods. It is only an anecdotal report on or comment concerning local observations. Your results may vary.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlF View Post
    Sounds like a bent main shaft, any others think the same??
    Easy to replace it you order one.
    Sounds right to me. Easy enough to tell - just take the plate off and observe while cranking (slowly, carefully, so you don't spill parts).
    People are shocked to see sharks in the water around here.

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    Buy the parts from pennparts.com and fix it yourself, the Spinfishers are simplicity defined.
    That or contact Keith aka Oceanmaster over at pensacolafishingforums.com, he'll fix for a very fair price.

    This is the perfect excuse to buy the Battle II anyways, a d sell or fix the Spinfisher.
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    Die if you must, but die on your home turf with your face to the wind, not in some stinking hellhole 2,000 kilometers away, among people you neither know nor care about.

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    Quote Originally Posted by frednic View Post
    Sounds right to me. Easy enough to tell - just take the plate off and observe while cranking (slowly, carefully, so you don't spill parts).
    I checked the shaft and it doesn't appear to be bent. I noticed that it seems to be directly related to how tight the drag is. If I don't turn the drag down very tight it operates smoothly. If I tighten the drag down more then it starts to bind about every 5 or 6 turns. Unfortunately, I have to have the drag set very light for it not to bind.

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    Then just replace the whole drag stack.
    pennparts.com is now mysticparts.com
    $6.40 plus S/H for complete stack.
    https://www.mysticparts.com/56-710SP-Kit-Drag-Washers-Complete-Kit-7-pcs-P24076.aspx

    I'd probably replace the drag knob too, $10.40 plus S/H
    https://www.mysticparts.com/52-550G-Knob-Drag-Knob-with-Seal-P23081.aspx

    ironman172 and pepper12 like this.
    Ragnar Benson:
    Never, under any circumstances, ever become a refugee.
    Die if you must, but die on your home turf with your face to the wind, not in some stinking hellhole 2,000 kilometers away, among people you neither know nor care about.

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  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChileRelleno View Post
    Then just replace the whole drag stack.
    pennparts.com is now mysticparts.com
    $6.40 plus S/H for complete stack.
    https://www.mysticparts.com/56-710SP-Kit-Drag-Washers-Complete-Kit-7-pcs-P24076.aspx

    I'd probably replace the drag knob too, $10.40 plus S/H
    https://www.mysticparts.com/52-550G-Knob-Drag-Knob-with-Seal-P23081.aspx

    I just ordered both these parts.......thx

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChileRelleno View Post
    Then just replace the whole drag stack.
    pennparts.com is now mysticparts.com
    $6.40 plus S/H for complete stack.
    https://www.mysticparts.com/56-710SP-Kit-Drag-Washers-Complete-Kit-7-pcs-P24076.aspx

    I'd probably replace the drag knob too, $10.40 plus S/H
    https://www.mysticparts.com/52-550G-Knob-Drag-Knob-with-Seal-P23081.aspx

    I watched several videos on installing these and they used some grease on the washers. I have some grease that I use on my firearms, would that work?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregInAtl View Post
    I watched several videos on installing these and they used some grease on the washers. I have some grease that I use on my firearms, would that work?
    No, not the same type of grease.
    Just install the drag stack dry, they'll be fine.
    That is unless you've some Cal's Grease, that's the only drag grease I'll use with HT-100 drags.
    Ragnar Benson:
    Never, under any circumstances, ever become a refugee.
    Die if you must, but die on your home turf with your face to the wind, not in some stinking hellhole 2,000 kilometers away, among people you neither know nor care about.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregInAtl View Post
    I watched several videos on installing these and they used some grease on the washers. I have some grease that I use on my firearms, would that work?
    Greg, did you take the old drag stack out and clean the inside of the spool and all metal and carbon washers. One of the carbon washers might be torn and is causing a binding when the drag is tight.

 

 
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