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Thread: Keeping large amounts of live bait

  1. #1
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    Keeping large amounts of live bait

    Hey guys, we got a group of about 10 guys coming down in a week or so to fish for a whole week. Every time I come down, live shrimp and bull minnows seem to be key for catching anything with decent table fair. Last year, I was going through about 16 dozen live shrimp and five dozen bull minnows for six people each day. And I was only using four 5 gallon buckets with aerators. Bull minnows would keep all night for 10+ hours no problem, but shrimp would start to die off after the four hour mark. We would also like to keep some pinfish and croakers to target reds and bigger seatrout.

    I have quite a bit of equipment for live bait. Several aerators, deep cycle batteries, 30 gallon shad tank, and a few 120 qt coolers. We do a lot of cat fishing during the summer time up here, and keep live bait readily available. What would be the best plan of action to keep larger amounts of shrimp and bull minnows alive for 24 hours? What's the best way to go about the water changes? Any other insight here? Thanks guys

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    I'm sure you know, but keep the bull minnows away from the shrimp.. Mine were amputees before I made it to the octi..
    I have found during the summer that an insulated cooler, aerated well, and frozen water bottles helps.

    I've been tinkering with a tranny(non kardashin type) cooler sunk in the bottom of my ice chest and circulating the water via a fountain pump... Battery life and pump life/quality has been an minor issue but it worked for stump perch when running limb lines. Drill a entrance and return hole and silicone it up once you run the tubing through. **i've noticed this keeps my bait water a few degrees cooler if left in the sun, but alot cooler if kept under an umbrella or canopy. IT ALSO MELTS MY BEER ICE ALOT QUICKER. This has been an issue for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Cleland View Post
    I'm sure you know, but keep the bull minnows away from the shrimp.. Mine were amputees before I made it to the octi..
    I have found during the summer that an insulated cooler, aerated well, and frozen water bottles helps.

    I've been tinkering with a tranny(non kardashin type) cooler sunk in the bottom of my ice chest and circulating the water via a fountain pump... Battery life and pump life/quality has been an minor issue but it worked for stump perch when running limb lines. Drill a entrance and return hole and silicone it up once you run the tubing through. **i've noticed this keeps my bait water a few degrees cooler if left in the sun, but alot cooler if kept under an umbrella or canopy. IT ALSO MELTS MY BEER ICE ALOT QUICKER. This has been an issue for me.
    Yeah, We have no problem keeping bait cool with ice bottles. With the shad tank we can keep threadfin shad alive in 100 degree heat during the summer. It's pretty well insulated. Plus, we'll be fishing at night mostly. Main concern is doing water changes. Do we just bucket water from a boat ramp? Or can we take tap water, add dechlorinator and salt? If so, how much salt per gallon to get the salinity right.

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    I would just bucket the water at the ramps. less margin for error in my opinion...
    eym_sirius and sittingheavy like this.

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    The best water to use is the water in the tank your bait comes from.
    if you ask they should give you an extra bucket (or two).
    You definitely CANNOT use tap water (or ANY) other fresh water.
    Sudden changes in water temperature or salinity are fatal to live shrimp.

    You didn't mention using any water conditioner products, and for hot weather and longterm live bait use I highly recommend using something like Shrimp Saver, Pogey Saver, O2 G-Juice, etc. This removes and neutralizes much of the ammonia and other nitrate based waste products from the bait themselves and extends the useful time of your bait water.
    sittingheavy and benhunts like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pier#r View Post
    The best water to use is the water in the tank your bait comes from.
    if you ask they should give you an extra bucket (or two).
    You definitely CANNOT use tap water (or ANY) other fresh water.
    Sudden changes in water temperature or salinity are fatal to live shrimp.

    You didn't mention using any water conditioner products, and for hot weather and longterm live bait use I highly recommend using something like Shrimp Saver, Pogey Saver, O2 G-Juice, etc. This removes and neutralizes much of the ammonia and other nitrate based waste products from the bait themselves and extends the useful time of your bait water.
    We usually use better bait, a little salt, and pond dechlorinator on freshwater bait, along with tempering the water to the water in the cooler. Then we transfer the bait to a new cooler/tank with fresh water thats been treated. Didn't know if this same process would work with saltwater bait, especially with trying to match the salinity. Might just tell the guys to bring their own 5 gallon buckets and haul their own bait vs dragging all this equipment down. Just figure it might be easier to purchase and keep bait in a few tanks vs everyone fending for themselves, if we could figure out the proper method.

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    I don’t know if this is feasible for you, as I stay out on Fort Morgan, I use a tent then put one of those plastic kiddie pools under it, change the water every once in a while, use the aerator and it works pretty well. When I have both baits, just find something to separate it.

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    Temperature maintenance, as previously stated is key. Cooler water can hold more dissolved oxygen, but extreme differences in temp can be detrimental to your baits health. If your bait is in 75 degree water when you buy it, maintaining as close to that as possible, with limited shifts in temp is key. You can freeze clean saltwater from the beach or bay in water bottles and as your bait water warms, you can add a bottle, cap off, to the bait rig until the temp gets back in line. This will limit the trips for water replacement as you will be adding new water from the melting water bottle. Bait conditioner, as stated, will also go a long way in boosting bait health and mortality. While cool water will hold more dissolved O2, the more O2 you have in the water, the more ammonia you have to dispose of.
    benhunts likes this.

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    Not mentioned but important - give the shrimp something to hold onto. A bait net left in the livewell works for me as I'm usually on a boat but swimming shrimp die much faster than shrimp who can hang on. They won't settle in the bottom of a bucket/tank/well/etc., they just keep swimming.
    Pier#r, MarkS1320 and benhunts like this.
    "Something which threatens your life is a problem, everything else is an inconvenience."

    Paul "Home Run" Richert
    21 January 1966 - 04 November 2005
    Rest in peace Brother

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